Fira d'Indians, a colonial fair in Begur

Most holidays and events in the Costa Brava can be easily categorized into the following types: political, religious, cultural, city days, music festivals, fairs. There aren't many that are one-of-a-kind whose iterations you won't find elsewhere, but a couple come to mind still: the books and roses of San Jordi, the calçots festival in Valls, and, of course, the Indianos Fair (Fira d'Indians) in Begur.

Despite its name, the Indianos Fair has no relation to the Aboriginal groups of the Americas or residents of India. "Indianos" in Spain is a very narrow category of people who had immigrated to Latin America in search of a better life and then returned to their homeland as millionaires.

In Begur, whose population today does not exceed even 5 thousand people, the Indianos population is coincidentally quite large (relatively speaking), and most of them have made their fortune in Cuba. The warm relationship between Begur and Cuba is the main theme of the celebration—the cruel colonialist exploitation of black Cubans being the foundation of the Indianos' wealth conveniently forgotten.

The fair begins on the first Friday of September and wraps up late at night on Sunday. The very first time the fair was held in Begur was in 2004; upon its roaring success, it was made an annual event. So what does a three-day festival look like in a town as tiny as Begur?

Shopping is a big part of any fair, and Fira d'Indians is no exception. Cuban coffee beans, rum, cocoa, cured meats, herbs and spices are common staples, along with sweets, chocolate and toys. Since the Fair has a dress code (white linen clothes and a straw hat), those who come unprepared can easily remedy the situation with a selection of white shirts, pants and dresses available for purchase too. Also on show are the products of traditional trades—hand-woven fishing nets, baskets, forged metal goods, alpargatas¹ and more.

Energetic Latin American music that quiets down only in the wee hours of the morning is an essential part of the Fair. You can burst into dance anywhere at any time and no one would bat an eye. The square Plaça Esteva i Cruañas and the main town parking spot on Avinguda de l'Onze de Setembre are both dedicated salsa dancing spots during the festival.

The main drink of the Indianos Fair is easy to guess—it's a mojito, served and sold at every corner in a branded glass that you are definitely going to keep as a souvenir from Begur.

Several years ago many Indianos' mansions opened their doors to visitors during the Fair. Anyone could enter to see the luxurious interiors and take selfies with the "owners" and the "servants" in period costumes, played by professional actors. Since then, ownership of the mansions has changed and become way less hospitable, so they are no longer accessible to the public even during Fira de Indianos.

The tourism office in Begur works special extended hours during the Fair. The piece of advice given to foreigners who have already bought all the colonial goods, tasted all the rum-based cocktails and tried out all the dance parties, is simple and simply Spanish—"Just enjoy the festivities!"

¹⁾Alpargatas are traditional Latin American shoes, a hybrid between sandals and flats.