The Lioness of Girona

Coordinates: 41.9879330000, 2.8241030000 (map)

Every self-respecting city or town has, or at least should, come up with a colourful ritual, the performance of which would allow the happy visitor to return to said city one day. These rituals around the world, for the most part, aren't very original. Throwing a coin into a fountain or rubbing a part of a sculpture that acquires an alluring shine after years of human touch is often as far as it goes. Meanwhile, the Catalan town of Girona has approached the task more creatively.

The beast climbing a Romanesque column on the Plaça de Sant Feliu square is referred to as the Lioness (lleona), even though the sculptor conceived of it as a lion. It might simply be a boring stereotype at play, as the king of the animals does not run away from danger or climb a tree with fear written all over its face—panic only befits the fairer sex, or so the stereotype goes. In practice, every child knows that lionesses are the real warriors and bacon-bringing leaders in the lion pride!

The lioness monument in Girona has been known to historians since the 11th century, when it stood close to the inn Hostal de la Lleona (whichever came first, the sculpture or the inn's name, is a typical chicken and egg problem). The ritual of kissing the most accessible (lowest) part of the animal, known as cul ("ass") in Catalan, has at some point become a rite of passage both for locals and travellers passing through. Checking in for the night? Pay a visit to the Lioness. Getting ready for a long trip and worried about never coming back? Make assurances by kissing the Lioness.

There is a sign next to the popular spot that was put up by the municipal government, informing visitors that people have been kissing the Lioness's ass for 800 years and no one has ever complained of the ritual not working. Of course, unsurprisingly enough, the statue standing on the square currently is a replica: the original sculpture was nearly kissed to death and was placed in the safety of a museum a good 30 years ago. Tourists have to contend with a copy, but it's a nice one that also comes with a pair of steps for easier reach.

The saying el cul de la lleona ("the lioness's ass") has become an integral part of the city folklore with no particularly bad connotations. Don't be surprised to encounter the phrase on a restaurant sign or in a dessert menu in Girona; order without worry!